Arguably the best beach in Cornwall, Pedn Vounder is easy to spot by walking the coastal path from Penberth Cove to the Minack Theatre. The well-trodden route boasts spectacular views of the coast from sunrise to sunset, with remote coves visible between the main beaches down below.
While Pedn Vounder is easy to spot from above, its turquoise sea and sandy beach is only reachable only on foot, by journeying down the ancient headlands that were the former heart of Britain’s overseas communications.
In the past it has been criticised for its strong currents and absence of lifeguard supervision, but the remote location is what makes it truly special, and the added task of having to scramble down rocks to reach the sand means it’s much quieter than nearby hotspots, namely Porthcurno.
Having visited some of Cornwall’s other famed seaside locations and thinking that they’d be hard to beat, I was shocked by the undeniable charm of Pedn Vounder on a recent visit. It’s so nice that nearly everyone we passed on the way down came to the same conclusion: it’s like being abroad.
Though it made me slightly sad that we’re a nation that denies having world-class beaches, Pedn Vounder has been recognised globally as one of the best in the world. Even when compared to the Caribbean or Maldives, it’s hard to say how breathtaking the beach looks – even on a busy summer day.
My first glance at Pedn Vounder was from way above in Treen, where you’ll find a popular campsite with unbeatable access to the coastal path below. We paid just £10 for 24-hour parking where we set up for a night of car camping among many other beach-loving visitors.
Luckily we arrived just in time for an incredible view of the dusky night sky, so we made our way down the coastal path and found a sturdy rock to perch against for the evening and watch the sun go down above the cove. Even in the evening, the beach looked completely irresistible with not a single footprint visible on the sand which was no doubt populated by visitors earlier that day.
Without a real plan for the day, we awoke with the sunrise and made the full journey along the coastal path, west towards the famed Minack Theatre. The route is well sign-posted for those who are fit and able to hike the sometimes steep path, and takes around 1.5 hours to walk from Treen to the Minack Theatre and back east to Pedn Vounder.
After seeing how busy Porthcurno Beach was at 10am on a Sunday, we agreed Pedn Vounder was a much better choice for a quieter experience. However, it’s best to check tide times before journeying down there – we aimed for late morning between high and low tide, when the beach was useable and we knew the water would be calmer later in the day.
Reaching the small bay is easier than it looks if you’re confident scrambling down some large rocks. We even ran into dog walkers helping their beloved K-9 companions onto the sand. By 11.15am, the beach was relatively empty though there were a few nudist visitors among others enjoying the sea already.
Finding a spot was incredibly easy, so I’d recommend heading to Pedn Vounder early in the day. That said, it’s a real sun-trap on a hot day with the only shade under a few caves that sit under the rugged granite headland, so plenty of sun-cream, cover-ups and water is advisable.
With provisions in hand – this is essential as there are absolutely no amenities on the beach – we soaked up the unspoiled views of glistening ocean and the spectacular rock formations that surround the cove.
Pedn Vounder did get much busier throughout the day with the beach filled up with solo visitors, couples, Instagrammers and families by mid-afternoon. That said, it was a nice vibe with people respectfully enjoying the landscape and wavy ocean.
It’s true that the spot is dangerous for swimming due to how tidal it is, with rip currents rife as detailed by many local guides. That said, it’s great for paddling and you can swim in the shallow areas if you’re careful and aware.
The views while on the beach and the entirety of the walk down (and back) are unrivalled, so it’s a must-see for this reason alone. But one of the most fascinating things about Pedn Vounder is that you can feel so calm and at one with nature despite the hustle and bustle of the beach around you.
Its convenient location just a short drive to the large town, of Penzance, makes it ideal for a day trip and it’s also close to Sennen Cove; a famed surfer spot just up the coast.
There’s no denying it’s a hotspot for tourists in the summer, but from my experience, people seemed respectful and friendly, and it only makes scrambling up the rocks even easier if there are plenty of people around to help.
As with many of Cornwall’s beaches, the pictures simply don’t do it justice – the azure waters and unspoiled views out to sea are one of a kind. And though a long drive from London, it’s a much better experience than spending £100s on a summer trip to a mediocre beach in Europe.
